Saturday 21 March 2015

Three alpine cheeses

The very least someone can do when they jet off skiing is to bring back some fine mountain cheese. As well as hosting excellent, powdery snow, the Savoie region of south-east France produces exquisitely pongy cheese. Luckily for me, Stuart brought back several samples from his trip last month.

My eye was immediately drawn to Tomme au Marc: encased by a thick coating of dried grapes, it looks a lot like a giant, glistening oreo. It also has a formidable scent, due to being matured under a layer of grape Marc — grape pressings residue — for at least a month. To me, it had an overpowering taste of wine, which I found too bitter to enjoy. 

Tomme au Marc

Next up, the milder Beret Savoyard, which, according to Stuart, smelt like an unwashed belly button. I don’t seem to have a photo of this one; I promise I’m not making it up though. Despite its funky odour, we didn’t have any problems finishing Beret, and it went down a treat with some spicy fruit chutney.

A mountain of cheese in Tignes, French Alps

Then there was St. Nectaire. This semi-soft, washed rind cheese originates from a different French region west of Savoie in Auvergne, and its production is protected by the AOC seal. Matured for up to two months on rye straw mats, this mild-tasting cheese is covered in a chalky mould. It has an 
earthy taste, likely due to the rich diet of the large Salers cows.

St. Nectaire

If I had to choose a favourite Alpine cheese, it would be St. Nectaire. Mild, soft and gloopy, it is comforting and distinctive. If you happen to be skiing in France in future, I urge you to try it. Just don’t take it to work. Stay tuned for my next post!

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